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Actually, Spam Is Good

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Esquire

Straight out of the can, Spam has the mouthfeel of a pinkish pâté and the look of congealed goo, putting it in stark contrast with artisanal cookery. “It doesn’t check any of the boxes of ethically sourced, local, healthy, or organic,” says Kamala Saxton of Seattle’s Korean-Hawaiian restaurant chain Marination. “It’s made in Minnesota by a big food conglomerate, and it has the highest amount of sodium of any meat you’ve ever had.”